Mari Murray, costume design queen.
Third year costume design student Mari Murray’s fantastic work has been getting her noticed around the University of Cumbria with her design skills being in high demand for shows put on by the performing arts students.
It’s not just performing arts students knocking on her door, the Students’ Union have asked Mari to design costumes for their new Student Union representative teddy bear. “I’m making a few costumes for him.” Mari, from Ireland said. “I’m very involved with the Students’ Union so when they got this new bear they asked me if there was any chance I could make some costumes. I’m currently making a little suit for the U-Decide meeting.”
Stuffed bears aside, Mari has just finished a kimono project she was working on with fellow UOC student Katie Johnston. “Katie is a photography student, she messaged me at the start of the year saying she was interested in doing a thing to do with maikos; trainee geishas, and she wanted a modern form kimono.” Mari added: “I came up with a few designs. We eventually settled on a particular design and then decided a colour scheme, we went for a western style pattern drafting which meant it was a lot more fitted and modern.”
Mari working on one of her designs.
“I did a lot of research into traditional Japanese dying techniques that are thousands of years old. I came up with a design and screen-printed it at university. We have really good facilities here that most places don’t have.”
A theme that runs through Mari’s work is historical accuracy which is an area of design she would like to turn into a career. “I’d really like to go into historical costume. I love really historically accurate clothing and pieces for films and shows, but I’m also looking into curating and conservation of fabrics because that’s another route to go down.”
“I also did a Gaelic dress which was as historically accurate as you can get in regards to pre-Norman dress in Ireland. I’m hoping to carry on with it for my dissertation.”
Over the summer Mari worked at a museum in Ireland called Muckross House, here they have a very precious pair of Victorian curtains that were installed to accommodate Queen Victoria in 1861. Whilst at the house Mari was given the chance to preserve the curtains whilst a new carpet was put down. “They got a conservationist to come down who was really nice and let me help with UV light monitoring to preserve these curtains, it really got me interested in conservation. I love the thought of how long ago these sorts of things were made and bringing them back to life.”
Mari with her finished kimono piece.
Mari had an usual path to studying at Cumbria. She started costume design whilst a schoolgirl and has always followed her passion for sowing. “My part time job when I was at school was costume designer at a stage school for kids. I used to be part of the stage school although I didn’t really like being on stage. One day something needed sewing and the costume designer wasn’t available so I did it, anyway she ended up quitting the job and they offered it to me. I wanted to continue sowing so I did fashion design for a year at the Grafton academy in Dublin. I loved it but every time I would make something it would have a costume feel. So I put a portfolio together and came over here to do a costume course. Cumbria was the only place where you make costumes that you actually get to see in shows, which is great.”
Since joining UOC Mari has designed costumes for 25 shows and says she has never not been working on a show. She said “One of my favorite pieces I did was an original dance piece I did last year based on a Neoplasticism, a form of art which involves just primary colours and straight lines. It was really interesting. The show had a cast of just four and they each had different feels to their characters. It was very expressive and fun.”
Words Jack Stride
Images Katie Johnston
CAMPUS 